If you've read our blogs, you'll notice that this is something we've not only mentioned, but encouraged time and time again. More than an upgrade, we believe it is the second wisest decision you'll make when getting a suit (first one opting for full bespoke, of course).
What is the problem with fused?
When you wear a suit, you won't feel the same fabric on the outer layer. You'll feel the interlinings, which are present in most suits as these are what give them its structure and shape. Typically found in off-the-rack suits, Fused Interlinings are not canvas and made with low quality fabrics that come with these problems:
poor ventilation (this is why most Filipinos think of suits as hot and sticky)
glued to the outer layer, which wears out much faster than canvas suits
Unflattering shape when worn out.
"But isn't it just the inside of a suit? If it wears out it shouldn't be a big concern."
Because the interlining's primary function is to hold the entire suit together, having it degrade the way it does becomes a major concern. The stress the suit takes from wearing and washing (even with proper care and dry cleaning) will cause the glue to separate and the entire suit to deform. In just a few wears, you will be left with a jacket that look crumpled, sloppy, and unbecoming.
If you intend to wear suits to work, or expect to have a set available for special occasions through the years, we highly recommend getting a half, or better yet, full canvas suit.
What is full canvas?
Instead of glued-on, low quality fabrics, you now have canvas which is sewn onto the outer fabric from chest to hem of the jacket. This change is not just an improvement in quality of material, but also in form and function:
1. Conforming Fit + Unrestricted Feel
Because canvas is made out of premium horse hair, it is not a tightly woven fabric. You are able to move more freely than in fused suits.
Overtime, the canvas conforms to your body's overall fit based on your movements and posture for a more natural and truly bespoke fit.
2. Lightweight & Breathable
Canvas is a more porous material which allows air to pass through, making it much better for those who wear suits in a tropical climate.
And because canvas in itself is lightweight and sewn, you don't have glue weighing down the jacket.
3. Longevity
A full canvas suit can last almost a lifetime because of the absence of glue. Glue hardens and splits due to wearing and cleaning (both of which are normal). Sewn on canvas allows you to wear without tear, and like fine wine, the shape does not decline and only gets better with age. A timeless and worthy investment.
While it may sound like a simple swap of material, it takes a skilled and experienced tailor to put a full canvas suit together. Not all haberdasheries offer this construction and not all are able to do it well. This also means that your suit may end up more costly in this construction, but you may not have to shell out extra when you have a suit made by us.
And what about Half-canvas? It is simply a cost compromise, where only the chest piece is canvas. Interestingly, half-canvas is 66% canvas and 33% glued interlining and not a literal 50% (half) canvas as the name would imply.
It’s already a more breathable, comfortable and longer lasting option than fused so we recommend getting at least this construction. Naturally, because you still have the a portion of the suit that is glued, expect it to wear out in that area over time.
Full canvas is still the most recommended to have all the above benefits in full effect. Common Suits is keen on re-introducing this construction in the Philippines and would like our customers to get the most out of their suits.
If you’re ready to go for a canvas suit, you may book below or contact us directly via socials or mobile.